'99-'06 c/k i-shaft removal

[fictmich]

Here's the info you guys have been wanting.:thumb:

I like to start this off by securing the steering wheel to keep it from moving and damaging the clock spring while the I-shaft is out. I do this by wraping a bungee cord through the wheel and up to the sun visor.

Next you will want to go under the dash and remove this bolt and separate the shaft from the bottom of the steering column.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/fictmich/DSC03846.jpg

Now you will need to go under the hood and remove this bolt and separate the shaft at this point as well.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/fictmich/DSC03848.jpg

In order to remove the shaft from the vehicle you will now need to pull the dust boot off that bolts on to the firewall. There are 3 nuts holding this on, 2 are visible on the left and one is not easily visible and is on the lower right.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/fictmich/DSC03850.jpg

Now you have your I-shaft out.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/fictmich/1010081620.jpg

[fictmich]

Now that you have the I-shaft out, you may want to add a grease zerk to help extend the life of this. The easiest way to do this is to find a drill slightly smaller than the threads of the grease zerk and drill a hole into the I-shaft. Then you should be able to install the zerk without needing to tap the hole. The best place to put this grease zerk would be over the splines of the I-shaft.

The following picture was taken of the the first prototype and doesn't quite work but illustrates where to place the grease zerk to make it work. We forgot to take into account that the I-shaft is not fully extended and that all but the bottom area will be covered by the boot. It would be beneficial to mark where the boot ends on the I-shaft before removing it so that you can make sure the grease zerk will clear.

http://i225.photobucket.com/albums/dd26/fictmich/10100808581.jpg

[Matt87GTA]

Very cool! Thanks Chris!

[av6ateu]

I've removed several hundred of this these steering shafts over the years and I don't usually remove the dust boot from the firewall. the shaft pulls threw the boot pretty easy into the passenger compartment.

Is there an advantage to doing it that way? The only one I can think of is you probably wouldn't have to unbolt the gas pedal to get the shaft out on newer models with adjustable pedals?:dunno:

[ZimRandy]

If the key is off, wouldn't the wheel stay locked in position? :dunno: *Edit* looks like it is for 2002 and later **

Here is the TSB: Subject: #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)

Updated shaft part number: 19153614

Thanks for the write up. :thumb:

Randy


Subject: Clunking Noise Under Hood and Can Be Felt in Steering Wheel and/or Steering Column (Replace Upper Intermediate Steering Shaft (I-Shaft) Assembly) #00-02-35-003M - (01/31/2007)

Models: 2002-2006 Cadillac Escalade Models
1999-2007 Chevrolet Silverado Models (Classic)
2000-2006 Chevrolet Suburban, Tahoe Models
2002-2006 Chevrolet Avalanche
1999-2007 GMC Sierra Models (Classic)
2000-2006 GMC Yukon, Yukon XL Models
2003-2006 HUMMER H2

Attention: This Service Bulletin DOES NOT include Mid-Size Utilities such as Buick Rainier, Chevrolet TrailBlazer Models, GMC Envoy Models or Oldsmobile Bravada. Refer to Service Bulletin 02-02-35-006A or newer for Mid-Size Utilities.
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This bulletin is being revised to update the repair procedure with a permanent fix. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 00-02-35-003L (Section 02 -- Steering).

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Condition
Some customers may comment on a clunk-type noise coming from under the hood that also can be felt in the steering wheel. These conditions may be more noticeable when turning at low speeds on rough road surfaces.

Diagnostic Tips
Use the information below to help diagnose the source of the noise.

• Frame Snap and/or Popping Type Noise -- A frame snap or popping type noise can be duplicated on rough or smooth road surfaces with steering wheel input to the left or the right. This type of noise can be HEARD and is typically louder with the windows rolled down. For additional information, refer to Corporate Bulletin Number 03-08-61-002F or newer -- Snap/Popping Type Noise Coming from Front of Vehicle (Remove Front Crossmember, Change Fastener Orientation).

• Intermediate Shaft Clunk -- Intermediate shaft clunk is heard and FELT in the steering wheel and/or steering column area, typically while driving on rough road surfaces with steering wheel input.

Correction
DO THIS
DON'T DO THIS

Replace the I-Shaft with P/N 19153614.
Do NOT lubricate or exercise the I-Shaft.

Important:
• I-shaft P/N 19155614 has been designed to replace previous designed dampened and non-dampened I-shafts. The physical difference in the yoke size will accommodate all vehicles listed in this bulletin.

• Due to the design of the new I-shaft, it is not possible to lubricate/grease the I-shaft.

Replace the steering column upper intermediate shaft with an improved design shaft that will eliminate the clunk noise using the procedure listed below.

Set the front wheels in the straight ahead position.
Notice: On the 2002 and later model year vehicles, the steering column LOCK was removed from the steering column. It is critical that the J 42640 - Steering column Anti-Rotation Pin is used when servicing steering columns on 2002 and later model year vehicles. Failure to use the J 42640 may result in damage to the SIR coil.

Set the steering wheel in the LOCK position on 2001 and prior model year vehicles.

For 2002 and later vehicles, install the J 42640 in the steering column lower access hole.
From under the hood, remove the lower bolt that connects the upper intermediate shaft to the steering gear coupling shaft.
Slide the shaft towards the dash in order to disengage the shaft from the steering gear coupling shaft.
For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
6.1. Reposition the carpet away from the accelerator pedal position (APP) sensor.

6.2. Remove the two nuts retaining the accelerator pedal to the bulkhead.

6.3. Reposition the accelerator pedal out of the way so the intermediate shaft can be removed.

From inside the vehicle, remove the upper bolt from the upper intermediate steering shaft (1) to the steering column connection.
Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft assembly.
8.1. From inside the vehicle, slide the shaft down and off the steering column.

8.2. From inside the vehicle, slide the upper intermediate shaft through the dash boot seal and remove the shaft from the vehicle.

Replace the upper intermediate shaft.
Install the upper intermediate steering shaft through the dash boot seal and slide the lower end into the steering gear coupling shaft.
Raise the upper end of the intermediate steering shaft and install into the steering column shaft.
Install the upper bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 47 N·m (35 lb ft).

Install the lower bolt and nut.
Tighten
Tighten the bolt to 50 N·m (37 lb ft).

For vehicles equipped with adjustable foot pedals, perform the following steps:
14.1. Reposition the accelerator pedals into position on the bulkhead.
14.2. Install the two retaining nuts.

Tighten
Tighten the nuts to 20 N·m (15 lb ft).
14.3. Reposition the carpet into place.

Parts Information
Part Number
Description

19153614
Shaft - Upper Intermediate Steering

[fictmich]

I've removed several hundred of this these steering shafts over the years and I don't usually remove the dust boot from the firewall. the shaft pulls threw the boot pretty easy into the passenger compartment.

Is there an advantage to doing it that way? The only one I can think of is you probably wouldn't have to unbolt the gas pedal to get the shaft out on newer models with adjustable pedals?:dunno:

If the key is off, wouldn't the wheel stay locked in position? :dunno:


I tried to write this as more of a general guidline covering all the years of this body style as opposed to writing a bunch of exceptions in it. The newer ones won't pull through on the inside without removing the gas pedal (which is worse to get at than the boot) and not all models have the steering wheel lock. So depending on which style you have some may come out easier but that should work for all of them which was what I was aiming for.