'94 T/A LSx swap

[jrmotorworks]

I suppose now that I have my pictures loaded I can start my build thread.

Basics:
94 Trans Am
LT1/A4
175k miles

I have some suspension work done, true trac and 3.73 gears I did a few years go... Everything else was done to the motor that came out.

After my 3rd dead opti in 7 years (50k miles or so) I said be "gone with you". So last year I started saving/gathering parts.

The swap basics:

2007 LQ4 iron 6.0L
L92 heads, LS3 intake
Leaving the bottom end stock for a few years...

T56 trans I got from an 02 Camaro with 30k miles on it
From that same car I had them send me the flywheel, for which they wanted $125 for it. So that seemed fair. When I got it, it turned out to be a Centerforce Billit aluminum flywheel (almost $700 new) ALONG with an LM Clutch and pressure plate attached to it (also almost $700 new).
So I say I did well on that... Ordered a new disk and had the pressure plate and FW sent off to get rebuilt for $160.

My other notable purchases so far: BMR Tubular K-member and Kooks stepped 1 7/8" headers, coated. And a bunch of other boring stuff I could go on for hours about lol. So I'll spare you guys unless you want to know specifics.

As of now, the LT1 is out and sold, trans sold, and old headers sold. (Good riddance!) Just about to start work on cleaning up the engine bay soon. Goal is to have the motor/trans in the car in a week or so.

Engine is awaiting head gaskets so I can finish up the motor. Think I've got almost all the parts I need to get the motor in the car. Then wiring starts, oh joy right?

That is it for now, "enjoy" some pictures. Like I said, nothing too spectacular going on yet, I haven't began cutting haha.

Pic from last year:
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/ta1.jpg

Coming out...
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/IMG_0906.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/IMG_0891.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/IMG_0889.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/IMG_0912.jpg

Next year's Halloween costume??
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/IMG_0914.jpg

Engine Build:

Trick Flow double roller
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5176.jpg

ARP rod bolts and new windage tray (exciting, i know)
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5169.jpg

Short block assembled
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5179.jpg

Guess that's all for now. Should have gaskets tomorrow and engine assembled by the weekend. I'll update as anything worthwile happens.

Thanks everyone,

Jeremy

[whiteghost94]

Good luck with the build man! looking good so far

[av6ateu]

Nice build:thumb:. What cam do you plan on running with the LQ4?

[jrmotorworks]

Thanks guys.

Cam is a Futral spec'd 228/238 .630/.600 112+4 LSA.

It's nothing overly aggressive but it should yeild a nice wide and flat torque curve. The dyno will tell us how we did.

[TQDrivenWS6]

Awesome. Perfect build without spending a ton of money. I bet that will be real driveable and still make great power.

[MaroonZ28]

Looks like a cool build. Should be fun.


Reminds me that I should be getting pics of my car with the engine out of it.

[jrmotorworks]

Haven't updated in a little while... Mainly due to their not being a LOT to update.

Got the K-member in, suspension back on so I could move it out and try to clean the engine bay (didn't work like I wanted :thumbsdown:).
Got the brake proportioning valve (ABS delete) and line lock mounted, brake lines next.

Engine is almost complete, need to mount P/S pump and crank pully. Clutch is on it's way back to me (finally! - a week later than they said), planning on motor/trans install next saturday. Then wiring, fuel pump and fuel system plumbing. Hope to have it running in two weeks.

Here are some updated pics:

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5185.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5184.jpg

I could look at these headers for hours... In a completely heterosexual way of course. :laugh:
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5194.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20build/IMG_5198-1.jpg

K-member
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5188.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5190.jpg

Modified the ABS bracket, not painted yet don't worry
http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5201.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5205.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5206.jpg

That's all for now folks.

Should have some decent progress this week.

-Jeremy

[MaroonZ28]

Tubular K-member. Sweet

[jrmotorworks]

Tubular K-member. Sweet

The LS1 K-member I got last year ended up being jacked up (good thing I got it for free), so... I couldn't resist ordering the BRM tubular one.
It's a shame though... My 2 favorite parts of all, the k member and headers, won't be seen all that much or at all once it's done.

[67RSSS]

Do you need a T56 trans crossmember from a 2002 WS6? I have one lying around...

[jrmotorworks]

Do you need a T56 trans crossmember from a 2002 WS6? I have one lying around...

I appreciate the offer but the LS1 x member won't work, has to be from an LT1. Got it covered though. Thanks again!

[jrmotorworks]

Well... It's in! Went in without any real issues or problems at all so that was nice. It's amazing how much less clutter there is with the LS motor vs. the damn LT1. And the Kooks headers fit amazingly! Way better than my old Hooker's. You get what you pay for I suppose.

I hope to have it running next weekend but we'll see how much time I have this week. Need to do the fuel pump, run the new fuel lines, change the rear brake lines and bleed them, install A/C and radiator... Then a shit ton of wiring (ugh). I'll continue to update as I get some progress.

Here are pics:

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5208.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5209.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5210.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5212.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5213.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5214.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5216.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5219.jpg

[96HawkCnvt]

Looks great! :thumb:


Todd

[Evan IROC-Z]

Well... It's in! Went in without any real issues or problems at all so that was nice. It's amazing how much less clutter there is with the LS motor vs. the damn LT1. And the Kooks headers fit amazingly! Way better than my old Hooker's. You get what you pay for I suppose.

I hope to have it running next weekend but we'll see how much time I have this week. Need to do the fuel pump, run the new fuel lines, change the rear brake lines and bleed them, install A/C and radiator... Then a shit ton of wiring (ugh). I'll continue to update as I get some progress.

Here are pics:

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5210.jpg



That is fantastic! The people in this picture look like they are helping a ton.

[jrmotorworks]

That is fantastic! The people in this picture look like they are helping a ton.

Lol at that moment... No. Overall, sorta. Had to go back over everything just to double check (damn rookies :laugh:) But at the end I sat there and watched them work as I smoked a cigar and told them what to do. So it worked out.

[jrmotorworks]

Damn... It's been a while since I updated this. I have pictures on the camera which I'll upload later... so just a quick update.

Engine harness is complete, just have a few wiring odds n ends left inside. I cranked the motor over last night and the new fuel pump is working. Bottom line is, hook up my oil pressure gauges, flash the computer, put on my plug wires and give it a go.

Evan, let me know if you hear anything around 530 or so... Open headers till tomorrow :) Think the cops would care if I drove it that way down to Turles? :laugh:

[MaroonZ28]

looks awesome

[Evan IROC-Z]

Damn... It's been a while since I updated this. I have pictures on the camera which I'll upload later... so just a quick update.

Engine harness is complete, just have a few wiring odds n ends left inside. I cranked the motor over last night and the new fuel pump is working. Bottom line is, hook up my oil pressure gauges, flash the computer, put on my plug wires and give it a go.

Evan, let me know if you hear anything around 530 or so... Open headers till tomorrow :) Think the cops would care if I drove it that way down to Turles? :laugh:

That is awesome! If you want drive it over to my place, my son and I will probably be hanging out. There is a guy with a chopper in my subdivision that has very little exhaust on it and has not be hassled. I would love to see you try to make it to Turtles. :ohnoes:

[jrmotorworks]

Well... Good news and bad news. Got it to start, kinda. It runs for about 2 seconds then dies. If I crack the throttle at all while starting it will not fire. Makes me think it's not getting enough fuel or something. Pressure is 55-60 so that's not it. HPT scanner is showing injector pulse while it runs, only getting about 900 RPM. Not seeing more than 1% injector duty cycle, wonder if that's right or not.

Guess I have some research to do. Damn.

[jrmotorworks]

In some research it might be my lack of MAF, since I plan to do SD. Guess I need to do a little more tuning (new at this thing lol). I've zero'd out some of the tables and changed the MAF DTC's to fail instead of not looking for them at all. Will work on the SD tuning and see if that gets me anywhwer. I set VATS to "None" so that should take care of that, right?

Thanks for the input in advance.

[01midmetws6]

Sounds like it was a VATS issue, I bet it fires right up now. :thumb:

[jrmotorworks]

Let's hope so. I had it set to none before, maybe ill do a write entire to make sure it copied over right. Also changing the maf settings. Hopefully its one of the two!

[jrmotorworks]

Well, it ran for about 8 seconds this time. Did a write entire, made sure VATS was set to none, enabled the DTC's for the MAF. I've got no idea what else to do or what to check. Seeing injector pulse, timing advance... Is there something else I need to to do the VATS?

[jrmotorworks]

If you haven't seen my other thread with the starting issues, the update would be that it runs. that means..... VIDEO time :-)

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Movies/th_ta2.jpg (http://s337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Movies/?action=view&current=ta2.flv)

Or http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cV0RIYw8snw

Sound isn't the greatest. Guess my nicer camera doesn't like open headers haha.

Hope that works for everyone. Excuse the MESS of wires, still not done yet.

Just gotta finish up a few things, get some exhaust and start tuning. Maybe get it on the road in a few days.

[slow94formula]

Sounds good! I'm guessing you don't have the tach hooked up huh? :lol:

[jrmotorworks]

Sounds good! I'm guessing you don't have the tach hooked up huh? :lol:

No sir haha.
Have a dash mounted tach, yet that's not wired either. Who needs one anyway right?

[jrmotorworks]

Just a small update. I reworked most of the exhaust, got my gauges in and working. Mainly all that's left is coolant lines, straighten up some wiring, make my intake, and finish my interior. Oh, then tuning :fingersx:

Not a lot to look at, still a mess but it will get there. Here are some new pics.

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5244.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5245.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5243.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5247.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5251.jpg

Nearing the end. Would like to take it for a spin on Sunday, we'll see how time allows. Of course there will be videos.

[jrmotorworks]

Well, after some tuning I finally got it to idle by itself. Took it for a spin, still getting some surging at low RPM, I know I've got a long way to go but it was a good feeling to leave the garage under it's own power.

Now, the bad news... Pulled it in the drive way and it finally started idling by iself (was not when I took it for a drive). So I let it sit there for a good 5 minutes just watching temps and such and was doing great. Holding RPM great, less than 100 fluctuation. Then all of the sudded it just died. I can't see anything in the log that would point to why. Fired it back up, again it wouldn't idle, hold the throttle steady and was surging then let off and it died. Fired it up again to pull in the garage and felt like it had no power, backfired once and had no throttle response. Put the fuel gauge on and showed ok but didn't want to run without giving it gas still.

I'm hoping its just tuning again. My new Innovate Wideband is a dud out of the box, so now I get to wait for a new one from them... So I might wait for that before I do much more. If anyone wants to take a peek at my log I'd be happy to send it :-)

But for now, here's a new video!

Psychostick fans will understand my Plates :durka:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhEdwjIw9d8

Back to the drawing board, but it's a big step for me anyway. Trans shifts great and it pulled great when I gave it some gas.

[01midmetws6]

Well, after some tuning I finally got it to idle by itself. Took it for a spin, still getting some surging at low RPM, I know I've got a long way to go but it was a good feeling to leave the garage under it's own power.

Now, the bad news... Pulled it in the drive way and it finally started idling by iself (was not when I took it for a drive). So I let it sit there for a good 5 minutes just watching temps and such and was doing great. Holding RPM great, less than 100 fluctuation. Then all of the sudded it just died. I can't see anything in the log that would point to why. Fired it back up, again it wouldn't idle, hold the throttle steady and was surging then let off and it died. Fired it up again to pull in the garage and felt like it had no power, backfired once and had no throttle response. Put the fuel gauge on and showed ok but didn't want to run without giving it gas still.

I'm hoping its just tuning again. My new Innovate Wideband is a dud out of the box, so now I get to wait for a new one from them... So I might wait for that before I do much more. If anyone wants to take a peek at my log I'd be happy to send it :-)

But for now, here's a new video!

Psychostick fans will understand my Plates :durka:

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KhEdwjIw9d8

Back to the drawing board, but it's a big step for me anyway. Trans shifts great and it pulled great when I gave it some gas.

I am assuming it is an LC1? What error are you getting? I just picked up a LM2 and it had a defective sensor.

[jrmotorworks]

I am assuming it is an LC1? What error are you getting? I just picked up a LM2 and it had a defective sensor.

LC1 is correct. Mine will light up the LEDs for a split second then go right to the 3 dashes (which indicates error). Their tech support had me check a few things, the heating element on the O2 sensor is working, I've checked all the connnections like 20 times, still nothing.

On another note... After the car cooled off some last night I went back out and fired it up. Popped right off and idled without touching the gas at all. So I got out and looked things over and about 2 minutes later it just died like you cut the key off. Fired back up and it wouldn't idle again. I didn't have the scanner on this time but I'm thinking it was right at about the time it hit Closed Loop. It has to have something to do with that. I don't want to use the STFT or the LTFT to correct fueling issues, which is why I bought a damned wideband.

So do I wait for that or try to use the fuel trims... Hope the LC1 wasn't a bad choice here.

[DrkPhx]

LC1 is correct. Mine will light up the LEDs for a split second then go right to the 3 dashes (which indicates error). Their tech support had me check a few things, the heating element on the O2 sensor is working, I've checked all the connnections like 20 times, still nothing.

On another note... After the car cooled off some last night I went back out and fired it up. Popped right off and idled without touching the gas at all. So I got out and looked things over and about 2 minutes later it just died like you cut the key off. Fired back up and it wouldn't idle again. I didn't have the scanner on this time but I'm thinking it was right at about the time it hit Closed Loop. It has to have something to do with that. I don't want to use the STFT or the LTFT to correct fueling issues, which is why I bought a damned wideband.

So do I wait for that or try to use the fuel trims... Hope the LC1 wasn't a bad choice here.

I use the LM1 without any problems. I didn't read the entire thread; has any tuning been done? Are the fuel trims currently disabled? Any codes? Datalog from cold start to the point it kills to confirm it hits CL and then dies.

[jrmotorworks]

I use the LM1 without any problems. I didn't read the entire thread; has any tuning been done? Are the fuel trims currently disabled? Any codes? Datalog from cold start to the point it kills to confirm it hits CL and then dies.

I wouldn't expect you to read the whole thread lol.
I have some basic tuning done, basically I worked on the idle, modified the VE table for the lower RPM range. Before that I was seeing -20 to -30% on the STFT so it was obviously running rich. Now I've got it down to less than -10, so still some room to play with.

My plan was to start it from cold after work today and see where I could it would die. Keyword: PLAN. fired it up and didn't want to idle, very sluggish. got it to run by holding the throttle for a minute and shut it down. Checked the temps on the headers and bank 1 was at 80 degrees and bank 2 was around 200. So one bank was not firing. Checked for voltage at coils and injectors, everything was fine. So I tried it again. Same results, except this time Bank 2 was cold and bank 1 was firing. WTF?? Log data showed nothing out of the ordinary which was odd. Led me to think electrical problem.

Pissed off I went inside, had dinner and cooled off. Went back out and wiggled every wire I could find and gave it a go. Fired right up, and idled perfectly. Let it idle for a good 15 to 20 minutes with no hicups of any kind. I commanded open and closed loop and no changes. I guess there was a loose wire or something?

I did see one code pop on today, possibly was on last night but didn't look I guess. It is P0106 MAP Performance. New map, and know the wiring is right on that, double checked it. So gotta look into that.

My new wideband will be here tomorrow (I love Amazon exchange, overnight shipping). So gotta find the MAP problem, again, then log with the wide band and see what I can do.

Again, sorry for the long posts, I don't know how to make it any shorter!

-Jeremy

[DrkPhx]

My plan was to start it from cold after work today and see where I could it would die. Keyword: PLAN. fired it up and didn't want to idle, very sluggish. got it to run by holding the throttle for a minute and shut it down. Checked the temps on the headers and bank 1 was at 80 degrees and bank 2 was around 200. So one bank was not firing. Checked for voltage at coils and injectors, everything was fine. So I tried it again. Same results, except this time Bank 2 was cold and bank 1 was firing. WTF?? Log data showed nothing out of the ordinary which was odd. Led me to think electrical problem.

Pissed off I went inside, had dinner and cooled off. Went back out and wiggled every wire I could find and gave it a go. Fired right up, and idled perfectly. Let it idle for a good 15 to 20 minutes with no hicups of any kind. I commanded open and closed loop and no changes. I guess there was a loose wire or something?

I did see one code pop on today, possibly was on last night but didn't look I guess. It is P0106 MAP Performance. New map, and know the wiring is right on that, double checked it. So gotta look into that.

My new wideband will be here tomorrow (I love Amazon exchange, overnight shipping). So gotta find the MAP problem, again, then log with the wide band and see what I can do.

Again, sorry for the long posts, I don't know how to make it any shorter!

-Jeremy

Intermittent electrical problems are always fun to chase. I would double check all of the grounds for a solid metal to metal connection. Check the fuse blocks for good connections. Are you using the original fuse block? I assume the LT1 fuse blocks are different compared to the LS1 (which I believe have separate fuses for each coil bank). As a sanity check, I would also check the battery voltage and charging system.

What injectors are you using? Assuming they're aftermarket, did you rescale the IFR?

[jrmotorworks]

Using the LT1 fuse box with a few modifications. I added some relays externally for the coils and injectors to make sure they were getting good power.

Running 50# injectors, and I did change the flow rates in th fuel settings for the bigger injectors.

Thanks for the input!

[Daytona_83]

Sweet man, I hope to one day have an LSx/T56 swap in my '83. Sounds like it's a very popular swap (local guy with an '86 Stang notchback just bought an LQ4 and a built T56). Good luck with getting it running good!

[jrmotorworks]

Thanks man! Appreciate that.

Now if I can get the bastard to work consistantly so I can have some fun with it. Once I figure it out, I'll be sure to tell you what NOT to do during your swap :p

[Daytona_83]

Haha, sounds good to me! I'm sure the swap is much easier on a 4th gen than a 3rd gen.

[jrmotorworks]

Some updates here... Got the interior and wiring almost completed. Almost everything under the hood is done. Just some re-routing of wires and vac. lines. Think I have the idle about nailed down so I can take it out and get some logging to really work on the tune... Now that I have a working Wideband (the first one was bad, replacement works great). So for now, here's a few pictures.

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5252.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5253.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Engine%20Install/IMG_5254.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5256.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5257.jpg

http://i337.photobucket.com/albums/n364/jdawg4545/Trans%20Am/LS1%20Engine%20Swap/Suspension%20and%20Interior/IMG_5258.jpg

[slow94formula]

The panel down by the shifter looks nice!

[jrmotorworks]

The panel down by the shifter looks nice!

Thanks! Made it myself. I found a few companies that make something like that out of plastic for about 30 bucks!! This first one took me less than an hour and a buck for the sheet metal (have a full sheet laying around). $30? Really? Guess I might have to start making some and selling them haha.

[timschot]

Just tuning left then?

[jrmotorworks]

I plan to take it to the road course at least a few times a year. Might wait until my brake upgrade, but we'll see how it does with the new brembo rotors and some good pads first. I'll take it to the strip as well.

[Evan IROC-Z]

I got to hear this beast run and it sounds incredible. I had my son sitting in the passenger seat when Jeremy was starting it up and his face just lit up. His eyes were as big as they could get and he had a grin from ear to ear. Later in the evening he even told my sister-in-law how he saw a big loud car.

Jeremy you are well on your way to having a really nice car.

[jrmotorworks]

Thanks Evan! Too bad it wouldn't stay running... BLAH!!!

After you left, I did find something ELSE that's adding to the problem. I swear, fix one thing and find another.

Anyway, the Pins in the connector for the harness to coils (the big one with the 7 wires ine it), had a couple pins that were slightly bent. So if you moved the wire enough it would lose all connection. IE, losing power... of course every time I tested for power the wire was in the right position. Go figure. I just happened to stumble across that and I bet that's been a big problem this whole time.

Now that I got that fixed, I need to get consistant stead grounds for the PCM. After that we'll fix the next problem that pops up haha.

Making headway I guess...

[scorpner]

Thanks Evan! Too bad it wouldn't stay running... BLAH!!!

After you left, I did find something ELSE that's adding to the problem. I swear, fix one thing and find another.

Anyway, the Pins in the connector for the harness to coils (the big one with the 7 wires ine it), had a couple pins that were slightly bent. So if you moved the wire enough it would lose all connection. IE, losing power... of course every time I tested for power the wire was in the right position. Go figure. I just happened to stumble across that and I bet that's been a big problem this whole time.

Now that I got that fixed, I need to get consistant stead grounds for the PCM. After that we'll fix the next problem that pops up haha.

Making headway I guess...
That was always one of the biggest problems I've seen over the years. I don't know how many techs that turned to the most sophisticated equipment before ever considering actual operating conditions. Whatever you have needs to be tested while the failure is occurring or you're mostly wasting your time.

[jrmotorworks]

That was always one of the biggest problems I've seen over the years. I don't know how many techs that turned to the most sophisticated equipment before ever considering actual operating conditions. Whatever you have needs to be tested while the failure is occurring or you're mostly wasting your time.

Exactly. And that's what I thought I had going. When it would die I'd go and check things and it looked like it had power because i'm sure it was making enough contact to show 12 volts, but when any current was demanded it probably just lost the connection, combined with vibration.

So that's solved. Now I'm just having a hard time getting a good ground on the PCM. If i connect my 4 wires to an alligator clip and the other end to either the battery or the ground lug I get .2 ohms resistance (which I've read is tolerable). But if I take and put those wires on any kind of a ring terminal or even just clamp it to the battery I get 20 ohms again. Very strange. So for tonight I said screw it, clamped down the aligator clip to the battery and am going to try for a drive. Tired of trying to get that to work right now dammit! :fingersx:

[scorpner]

Do other LSXs or LT1's have the same 20 ohm from ground to the PCM as you are doing? I'm not familiar with any of the electronics, but I do know that sometimes computers are isolated or buffered from the rest of the electronics to avoid voltage spikes. I believe coils are also insulated to keep electrical noise separate from other things, ie. the radio.

It sounds like you're reading ohms on a live circuit when it's connected to the battery. When the meter is on the ohm function it passes it's own current through to measure the resistance -any other current would complicate things or even damage the meter. Typically you read voltage drops across live circuits and ohms when there's no power. To measure the resistance you would measure each end of the wire with one end free, or one end of a wire to the battery with the other side of the battery disconnected.

[jrmotorworks]

I was thinking the same things, but I found some information stating to check to make sure voltage wasn't back-feeding through the ground and measure with key on. And that's what I did, however It's improved greatly and ran great tonight. I searched for days to see if there was supposed to be some sort of resistance on the PCM circuit at key-on but to no avail. I have a friend coming over tomorrow with an LS1 car I think I'll perform some tests on just to be sure.

But as stated above, all the other things I tweaked and fixed seems to be finally paying off. Fired right up and idled. Ran out of time for a drive but that's ok. Have all weekend now. Hopefully...

[scorpner]

Ok, I wasn't sure how much you knew, sorry if I was a bit redundant. It does sound like you have a handle on things now and I'd definitely compare them to see if there's any differences. The loose connections were a great find BTW.

[jrmotorworks]

Ok, I wasn't sure how much you knew, sorry if I was a bit redundant. It does sound like you have a handle on things now and I'd definitely compare them to see if there's any differences. The loose connections were a great find BTW.

No offense taken, no worries! I'm no expert by any means.

I forgot I had a GM service manual for a 98 F-body laying around. Happened to have the section for the engine electronics. Searched through a few hundred pages for an answer on the power-on ground deal with no luck. All it ever states is "verify a good clean ground". Well shit. Makes me think maybe I'm chasing down something I don't need to be. Wouldn't be the first time... (first few girlfriends? :dunno: haha).

But I'll reference another similar car tomorrow just to put my mind to rest and put an end to that debate.

Anywho. I'm off for now. Plan to hit up the Cars and Cafe deal tomorrow.

Later

[jrmotorworks]

Woo hoo! Made it to the gas station and back! Only problem is it dies when I push the clutch in, doesn't quite catch and idle. I'm sure that's a tune issue. And speedo is intermittent. But feels good to go more than just around the damn block!

[timschot]

Sweet! Sorry I missed you at C&C... was running a little late this morning. Looking forward to seeing your setup.

[jrmotorworks]

Sweet! Sorry I missed you at C&C... was running a little late this morning. Looking forward to seeing your setup.

Thanks Tim!

No prob. about this morning. I got lazy and didn't feel like walking anymore. Call me a bum.

[I eat 441's]

Very Nice!

[89ROC-Z]

I am 100% jealous right now...fuck i should of saved my money for l92s and a COMPLETE ls3 intake for 300 ontech right now, damn injectors for the ls1 intake will be 200 bucks (bang head against wall)


what rod bolts did you use? I got some arp 2000s and after some reading about the rod getting out of round idk if ishould put them in?? Insight?

[chevboy28]

i put em in mine...

[89ROC-Z]

^^ and has there been any trouble?

[jrmotorworks]

$300 for a complete intake is damn good. I assume you mean intake, rails, and injectors? I had $300 for just intake and rails... The nice thing is you can always stockpile parts and swap over to the new top end later. Just don't spend a lot on the one your putting in first.

I can't recall which ARP rod bolts I used. I can find out for you if you want. there was a lot of people saying you have to have the rod machined again if you sawp the rod bolts over... there may be SOME truth to that, but I've never seen anyone have any problems doing it. Mine seems to be running fine and I've hit 6,700 a few times already (thinking of going to 7k when I dyno to see if it's even worth it). I would recommend the rod bolts for sure though.

[89ROC-Z]

$300 for a complete intake is damn good. I assume you mean intake, rails, and injectors? I had $300 for just intake and rails... The nice thing is you can always stockpile parts and swap over to the new top end later. Just don't spend a lot on the one your putting in first.

I can't recall which ARP rod bolts I used. I can find out for you if you want. there was a lot of people saying you have to have the rod machined again if you sawp the rod bolts over... there may be SOME truth to that, but I've never seen anyone have any problems doing it. Mine seems to be running fine and I've hit 6,700 a few times already (thinking of going to 7k when I dyno to see if it's even worth it). I would recommend the rod bolts for sure though.

Yep 310 IIRC SHIPPED for intake rails and stock injectors. I'm sure the ls3 intake flows better than an ls6? Some day ill have to switch to better heads and intake.

I'll put the rod bolts in and call it good.

[TQDrivenWS6]

Yep 310 IIRC SHIPPED for intake rails and stock injectors. I'm sure the ls3 intake flows better than an ls6? Some day ill have to switch to better heads and intake.

I'll put the rod bolts in and call it good.

Isn't the LS3 rectangular port? What heads were you planning on running, L92?

[jrmotorworks]

Isn't the LS3 rectangular port? What heads were you planning on running, L92?

Yeah, LS3 is the newer rectangle ports.


As for the deal on the intake... You'll always be able to find another good deal down the road. Just be ready to jump on it when you see it.

[freak_leg]

Lol at that moment... No. Overall, sorta. Had to go back over everything just to double check (damn rookies :laugh:) But at the end I sat there and watched them work as I smoked a cigar and told them what to do. So it worked out.

:squintfinger: Fine, good luck lowering your car while holding the K-Member by yourself next time... A HOLE

[jrmotorworks]

:squintfinger: Fine, good luck lowering your car while holding the K-Member by yourself next time... A HOLE

Blasted! You can read too? Damn. :roofles: